I hadn't spent much time on blue glacier ice before. This blog is written from the perspective of a climber, interested in teaching mountaineering techniques in inspiring settings; the outlet glaciers of the Jostesbren National park certainly provided.
The approach each morning from Jostesdal was short enough to get the group warmed up and socialising. The first glacier we visited was Nigersbreen, very popular with tourist groups and first time glacier travellers due to its accessibility and low angled entry slopes.
The group were given almost an hour to rope up, A style of teaching adopted here that im gradually getting use to, the logic being its better to let the the group sort out their own systems with a little reminder of last nights practice than simply tying them in a heading off.
A brief introduction to walking in crampons was then provided. the group were instructed to walk slightly duck-footed, with our feet apart and roiling the ankles to allow all of the crampon points to engage with the hard ice. I was then rather shocked to see the rate of task progression, our guide then led the rope together team on rapidly increasingly challenging terrain combinating in some very cool crevasse bridging.
Once on to the glacier the view is pretty staggering
The group tentatively learning to trust their sharp points.
The last teaching part of our very interactive first day on the ice was ice screw placement, not so surprisingly straight forward when you are surrounded by quality ice. no questions were raised as to the quality of placements,- a new feeling for a Scotsman!
Day 2 and 3 focused primarily on Crevasse rescue. Certainly a doubting task when being confronted by carbines, prussiks and large crevasses for the first time. Suddenly the carefree practice attempt using trees at the campsite felt like a distant memory for most of the group.
The method of rescue Vegard and the other guides imparted to the international group was one of the most simplified I had seen. The person on the rope system nearest to the fallen casualty, places one 22 cm ice screw and transfers the load onto the anchor using the original prussik that was previously a part of their glacier walking system. An independent rescue rope was then utilised, gravity takes a locking carabiner to the casualty who then clips it in to their belay loop, and is instructed to keep themselves safe using there own prussik on the original glacier travelling rope. the whole rope team can then get involved and extract the casualty from the crevasse.
An option to try ice climbing was presented to the group on the final day. Most of the students gladly took up the opportunity and we were shown to a steeper bowl like feature on the upper part of the Glacier, ideal for setting up top ropes and having a go at swinging climbing axes.
"remember guys hips in shoulders back its that easy." sound advise!
Comments and Reflections.
The visually striking and easily accessible nature of the Negaersbreen glacier in particular makes theses blue ice environments ideal teaching terrain. learning journeys an be condensed into short tours where newly acquired skills can be immediately tried out in a progressive and easily manipulated manor. I was honestly very impressed with the fulfilment of am ambitious list of technical learning outcomes for everyone in the group. What an environment for introducing people to the joys of Alpine mountaineering.
I liked how teaching focused almost entirely on developing footwork using crampons: It was good to see the teachers confidence in developing this before getting the group to think about using their axes. This is something I would like to take forward myself when working with beginners using crampons, focusing the groups attention on preventing a slide rather than guarding against one or by adding extra complications.
Teaching style was very rapid, for instance demonstrating an entire crevasse rescue scenario instead of introducing elements bit by bit such as explaining friction knots or the principles behind setting up a mechanical advantage. This worked for our group, however I don't think it would for most.
The rescue technique shown using a independent rescue rope does have some crucial limiting aspects that were not mentioned. The casualty would have to be conscious in order to attach the rescue rope to themselves, I felt that this was a point probably worth mentioning, as it wouldn't take long to expand the groups knowledge and use a secondary prussik to implant a Z rig system.
I would have liked to talk a bit more about different rope teams. Moving on a rope as a large group of 6 is obviously different than moving in smaller teams, smaller teams travel more efficiently through technical terrain and can quickly chage to climbing mode. But a team of more than two has greater stopping power during a crevasse fall.(Davis, S, 2014, )something probably worth mentioning as the participants are likely to be venturing off in smaller groups next time.
All in all another incredible week of seeing how the mentors at HISF impart a wealth of knowledge to the class of international students. My eyes have defiantly been opened to the possibilities of teaching on the blue ice.
References
Davis, S, 2014, " Travelling on a Rope Team" Online at: http://www.climbing.com/skills/traveling-on-a-rope-team/
