Ben Nevis Winter Climbing

Early season rim ice provides mixed climbing potential November 2017.

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To every Scottish winter climber, Ben Nevis is a special place. The complexity of many teared buttresses that make up its north face provide lifetimes of winter climbing potential and the rich heritage here has delivered a entire guidebook full of evolutionary mountaineering history.

In decent conditions there really is something here for everyone from classic mountaineering ridges such as castle, observatory and Tower first ascended in            to modern day test peaces. Even new routes are established every year. 

I cant think of another such condensed winter climbing area that has been explored so extensively as the impressive northern aspect of the UKs highest mountain.

Liam Toping out surrounded by  the granite columns of Number 3 Gully Buttress. 

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Hadians Wall Direct V 5 ***

On the 12th of March 2018, the Alarm sounded at 5.20am in the back of old clembers van in the ben nevis car park. Normally this awaking at such an early time would be highly unpleasant, however this time we sprang into action -today was one of those few good weather days that every winter climber in Britain pulls a stcky to climb classic ice routes that rarely form on a blue sky day. We were excited by the possibility of beating the crowds to the base of the most sight after climbs.

7.30am, we arrived at the Observatory Buttress. The group just ahead of us are a guided party from the company that im doing my trainee ship with..... best not over take them.

Teams jostling for position foe classic ice lines below the west side of observatory Buttress.

Looking back down the first grade 5 ice pitch of Hadrians direct. The ice was good quality for pick placements, one swing sticks for most of the. confidence inspiring ice!

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Sam swinging his axes into some all too rare quality Scottish ice.

Moving off from the first Stance.

Sam Leading the icy scoop pitch on Pitch 3 in between spin-drift showers.

Above we moved together on mid section snow slope, easy but dangerous ground. The very last section proved exciting, proved exciting, long pitches of snow ice that only took marginal screws and the odd rock protection. The climbing wasn't hard but after 300m and not enough sleep it required my full concentration and the last of my tired calves.

Summit selfie. Happy days!

Descending from the summit of Ben Nevis. Always feels like a long way down.

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